Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Cognac = Definition of a "Classic": It Never Goes Away!

Amy Cavanaugh 's post could not be more stereotyped of what I hear from people who like spirits, brown or clear, scotch, vodkas, and else, but knows nothing or very little about cognac.

Cognac Paradis Courvoisier 21 Connoisseur Collection
Cognac Paradis Courvoisier 21 Connoisseur Collection
"Going into a cognac tasting at the Drawing Room last week, I didn’t know much about the grape-based spirit. I’m a brown spirits drinker, but my tastes usually run more toward bourbon and scotch, and I hadn’t ever had more than a nip of cognac here and there.
I blind tasted cognac against Irish whiskey, Scotch whiskey, rye, bourbon, and aged rum to taste the difference between grain and grape-based liquors. I found cognac heavier on the tongue, with a taste that lingered longer in my mouth than any of the other spirits did.
Cognac was originally used in mint juleps, sazeracs, and other classic cocktails that now feature bourbon and other spirits. It fell off the radar over the years, thanks in part to an insect attack that destroyed many French vineyards in the late 19th century. With the resurgence of interest in the classics, it’s starting to appear on more and more cocktail menus."
Cognac is a modern spirit because it is a classic, that means it never goes away and it is always trendy for the connoisseurs.  It is the traditional ingredient of prohibition cocktails and back in the trends today. It is made by  a long list of connected intermediaries and families, and it requires the utmost quality steps to be created. It is very exclusive and also sustainable from an environmental perspective - "liquid gold" some call it.
So do not get me wrong. I enjoy most types of spirits (with moderation). I only have favorites spirits for specific situations. I think cognacs are more elegant, subtle and clean than other spirits, but I am open minded. If I had to pick a second favorite spirits it would be eaux-de-vie for the variety of fruits that can be found. Otherwise, in second I would pick Calvados. I love crepes perhaps this is why.
Source: Photo: Courvoisier Cognac

Friday, November 18, 2011

Why Is Cognac a Brandy of Choice?

Brandy is a broad overall category which includes all distilled products issued from fermented fruits. Hence, it includes sub-categories such as Armagnac, Calvados, Grapa, Pisco, Eau-de-Vie, ... but also 'Cognac'. Another sub-category is also brandy which is commonly known as an aged distilled grape wine. The problem with brandy as a sub-category is that often these brandies are the results of distillation of 'cheap' wines and therefore they produce less interesting distillates which are less regulated and protected and maybe manipulated in such a way to improve the original product. Such manipulations may enhance smoothness, taste and color by adding something to 'enhance'.
Some cultures and countries have a real tradition in making brandy of wines like Spain or Armenia. They both have a set of specific traditions in aging and producing but at the end they produce a much sweeter brandy than say French brandy.
French brandies (i.e. generic of wines) appear in a wide variety of quality levels with some being 'the run of the mill' and other being absolutely outstanding.
Germans have a strong reputation in making brandy covering a wide spectrum of quality products, but they are most generally famous for their quality eaux-de-vie. In Germany they do not call these brandies or eaux-de-vie but schnapps. The fruits most used for Schnapps are are apricot, apples, cherries, pears, and plums. In some situation, they use raspberries or rather they infused raspberries with rectified grape brandies because the raspberries produce a low yield of alcohol due to their low sugar content. In addition, a 100% raspberry brandy/schnapps will require too many fruits and would turn too expensive.
The concept behind eau-de-vie is to be a brandy which expresses the typicity of the fruits originally fermented. Hence, eaux-de-vie made of fermented apricots should taste and smell like concentrated apricots. Eaux-de-vie can but are therefore rarely aged for the sake of keeping the typicity of the fruits being used. Apple Jack are brandy made of fermented apples. In this situation, one would not want to age too much their apple jacks to keep the typicity of the apples.
Calvados is a geographic indication (issue related to trademark) and/or an 'appellation d'origine controllee' (issue related to French regulations) . In the case of Calvados, the apple expression is very much revealed in young Calvados whereas older Calvados become richer super-premium brandy like where the expression is to reveal complexity and facets, and where the apples characteristics fade away with time.
Consequently cognac is a brandy and more specifically a double distilled grape wine from Charentes, Deux Sevres and Vienne in compliance with the French regulated "appellation d'origine controlee".

What Makes Cognac Outstanding - A Perspective.

An interesting recent article from 'The Star online magazine' reports on Hennessy Cognac in Malaysia. I find this article pertinent as it reveals a set of perspectives on cognac which I believe explains what sets it apart from other types of spirits.
These characteristics are:
1) First it begins with the barrels. Made of French oak, specifically sourced from the forests of Limousin.
2) Light barrel toasting. When barrels are made they are burnt or rather fired inside to stimulate the chemical reaction with the contact of the spirits aging inside. The more you toast the bolder the smoky taste and the lesser other flavors will come out. There is a debate about toasting versus burning oak barrels. The difference is like when you prepare your breakfast and you have to set your brand new toaster (a) you do not know if 1 or 2 minutes will do and (b) everyone has a different preference in how much they like their bread to be toasted. An error of setting will get you to burn your toasts. Sometimes oak barrels are consciously burnt. cognac or armagnac's barrels are toasted, bourbon's oak barrels are for instance burnt. Try bourbon and you will see an overwhelming smoky taste because of that. Now, there is no good or bad, it is a question of tradition and choice.
3) Longer aging of eaux-de-vie. In general and by comparison cognac are aged longer. For instance, Tequilas are aged 5 years maximum. Why because a good tequila is about tasting the quality of the agaves being used to make it and with extended aging this goes away and it defeats the nature of this spirit.
4) Assemblage. I say assemblage rather than 'blending' as this term is being looked down as a way of getting ride of bad blends by mixing with good blends. Assemblage is more of a conscious type of selective blending - so I will say assemblage instead. And I insist cognac is about assemblage who ever is trying to tell you the opposite is wrong - period. "Single this" and "single that" is just inferior cognac but I agree the non-blended cognacs are more unique and why not trying them - but again this is not the nature of what cognac is about.
5) Factors like the weather, soil conditions and the timing of t he harvest. Terroir and tradition makes cognac a unique and original product.
6) Hence importance of the cellar. The cellar dryness and humidity dictate the smoothness and aromas. Higher humidity are favored.
7) Officially and/or unofficially endorsed by famous hip hop entertainers. Celebrities just do not drink eaux-de-vie or grapas, etc... That does not mean they are right.

8) I will add that cognac is the most expensive liquor. A bottle of cognac fetched 1 million yuan (US$156,740) at a recent auction in Shanghai, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, announcing the importance China will be taking in the market for the high-end liquors. This bottle was bought as a gift from a daughter to her father. It could happen to me, I have a daughter!

Source: Reference: http://tinyurl.com/7gjydx8
Source: Photo: http://www.gomoneyways.com/?p=43010

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Remy Martin is Lowering the Price of its VSOP in Canada for the Holidays

The Record.com has just announced that Remy Martin has started discounting its cognacs in Canada to seize the opportunity of increasing sales during the end-of-the-year shopping season. VSOP Cognac has lowered its prices for the holidays. From now until the end of the year, both VSOP labels — the regular bottle and the limited edition glow-in-the-dark Urban Lights package are reduced by $15 a bottle, from $89.95 to $74.95.

Remy Martin VSOP uses the term “Fine Champagne” on most of its labels. Champagne in this context means “country,” from an old French "campagne" and it has nothing to do with the sparkling wine made with grapes from the north east of France. I maybe wrong but I strongly associate Remy Martin with "fine champagne" as far as I am concerned I give them credit for this concept.
The Fine Champagne is an "appellation d'origine controlee" AOC which describes a cognac made from the double distillation of  grapes exclusively coming from the Grande and Petite Champagne designated areas within the Cognac region.
Source:   http://tinyurl.com/7ub9co3

Cigar Aficionado is Honoring Pairing with Cognac

The  Big Smoke Las Vegas ended with the traditional partnering of cigars with spirits, this year with the time-honored pairing of smoke with Cognac.
Read more at:

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Philippe Coste, A Successful Career In the Cognac Region!

Since Bernard Guionnet passed away in April 2011, Philippe Coste, the President of Cognac Meukow is the new interim President of the Bureau National Interprofessionel du Cognac. In September 26th 2011, he was elected President of the Union of Cognac Houses [Syndicat des maisons de cognac (SMC)]. These 3 presidencies are remarkable levels of achievements as well as many difficult responsibilities to balance. Patrick Piana CEO of Cognac Rémy Martin will serve as vice-president of the SMC.
Cognac Meukow is part of the Compagnie de Guyenne. Philippe Coste is a very representative president as his company is made of 85 employees, and it is family owned and operated. 


Source: Photo: Cognac Meukow
Source: News: www.charentelibre.fr

House Hunters International in Search of a 'House of Cognac' for Comandon Cognac

While you may not know the Vignerons, you may have heard of Comandon Cognac. Franck Vigneron is the owner of Comandon Cognac. Home and Garden TV will air for the first time an episode of House Hunters International which shows the Vignerons looking for a home in Cognac to re-established the House of Comandon. The House Hunters International show is very popular and this is not the first time they show an episode in Cognac, but it will be the first time it presents a search for a "House of Cognac".  The show consists in a couple looking to relocate in a different country. In general, they show the current house where these people live, and then go along with the couple in the selected country to visit 3 different houses and eventually purchase one. The TV Show airs for the first time tomorrow evening.
HGTV, House Hunter International  --->  http://tinyurl.com/3ppe84x 
Cognac Paradis House LogoEpisode Name: Historic Homes in France's Cognac Country
Episode Number: HHINT-2905H
First Time on TV: Thursday 10th November 2011.
 . Pacific and Eastern = 9:30pm and later at night at 12.30am
 . Central = 8.30pm and 11.30pm
 . Mountain = 7.30pm and 10.30pm